{"id":924,"date":"2023-09-30T10:35:35","date_gmt":"2023-09-30T14:35:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jerrykuntz.org\/harryhill\/?p=924"},"modified":"2023-09-30T10:35:39","modified_gmt":"2023-09-30T14:35:39","slug":"a-t-stewart-wine-connoisseur-published-nov-1-1885","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jerrykuntz.org\/harryhill\/a-t-stewart-wine-connoisseur-published-nov-1-1885\/","title":{"rendered":"A. T. Stewart, Wine Connoisseur [published Nov. 1, 1885]"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"
Dinner set for twelve<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The late lamented Morris Franklin president of the New York Life Insurance Company, who, by the by, was a neighbor of mine for many years at Flushing, was a great hand at Sunday dinners, at which all the members of his family, scattered throughout the week, were reunited. The old gentleman found this Sunday dinner reunion the best method of keepin\u2019 his family attached and affectionate, and held it was the best way of keepin\u2019 Sunday. The late A. T. Stewart, although a childless man himself, was also a firm and steadfast believer in sociable Sunday dinners, formin\u2019 weekly reunions of his friends, keepin\u2019 up his circle of acquaintances and makin\u2019 him \u201cfeel, once a week,\u201d as he used to say \u201clike a family man.\u201d From the time he moved into his marble palace on Fifth avenue, the Stewart Sunday dinner was the main feature of the week, and probably the Stewart Sunday dinner was the one finest dinner in every respect given that day in New York. Stewart, who was the greatest master in the world of the art of \u201cdetail,\u201d saw to all the details of these dinners himself. So that they were absolutely perfect. He had the best cook, steward, etc., that money could procure, yet he personally superintended \u2018em all; he left nothing to chance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Alexander Turney Stewart<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      He seldom attempted big dinner parties, because he found by experience, as everybody else will find who makes the trial, that where there are so many guests there are sure to be some bores, or some who do not assimilate and get along with the rest. So, as a rule he confined his invitations to a dinner to ten or twelve, and spent as much time and money on their entertainment as if there were a hundred.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 And it was as much to Judge Hilton’s accomplishments as a talker at table as to his business abilities that Hilton owed his favor in Stewart’s eyes. In fact, it seemed as if Hilton was giving these dinners, not Stewart. It was Hilton, not Stewart, who made out the list of guests. It was only in the matter of wines that Stewart asserted himself. In this department he reigned supreme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Henry Hilton<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      The millionaire claimed to be as good a judge of wines as he was of pictures, and he certainly spent enormous sums successfully on both. He employed one travelin\u2019 agent in Europe, who did nothing but supply him with choice wines. The choicer and the more expensive the wines his agent selected the higher was the salary this favored agent received. Thus it was a mutually satisfactory arrangement, and on several occasions Stewart actually got the inside track of European dukes and princes and got wines that they had endeavored to secure in vain. This would tickle the old man greatly, and his lucky wine man would receive by the next steamer some substantial token of his employer\u2019s satisfaction. Some men in the agent’s position would have abused their trust, but this agent didn’t. A. T. Stewart was a bad bad man to fool with, and especially on wines, for he really knew enough about \u2018em to have been his own agent, had he so chosen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 One day, a red letter day in the great merchant\u2019s calendar, he received an invoice of the world famous wine known as \u201cPrince Metternich\u2019s blue seal,\u201d a wine he had set his heart upon for years but in vain. It took a great deal to move A. T. Stewart out of his regular routine. A panic wouldn’t have done, it but this \u201cBlue Seal\u201d did. With a smile of supreme self-satisfaction the Napoleon of trade went with his wine to his palace and enjoyed an hour\u2019s bliss in the constant contemplation, and an occasional sip, of his treasure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Metternich riesling <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      Stewart was a very abstemious man, even in wine. He valued it for quality. He did not gorge in quantity. He set an example of temperance, even at his own magnificence dinners. But his delight in looking at his wine, and feelin\u2019 he owned it, was greater than the delirious joy of the most confirmed toper. And his next remittance to his wine agent contained $2,000 extra as an appreciation of his services in securin\u2019 this prize. No one served Stewart well gratis. Stewart was also very fond of choice sherry and madeira, and once went on to Cincinnati in person to procure some rare vintages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      To be offered a sip of this Metternich \u201cblue seal\u201d was to be shown a special mark of favor and was a sure sign that the recipient of the courtesy stood high in the rich man’s esteem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      The millionaire had special glasses for this special wine, glasses very costly, very exquisite and very small. He poured out the wine into these glasses with his own hand, and small as the glasses were, he hardly ever quite filled \u2018em. If the blue seal had been deadly poison it would have hardly killed in these glasses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      At one Stewart Sunday dinner a little episode occurred which cost the man who made a somewhat pointed remark about fifty thousand dollars. An English banker was invited by Stewart to his tables, and the millionaire poured out the blue seal. The Englishman quaffed down what there was of it at a gulp, in a careless manner, quite at contrast with the solemn style in which Stewart had poured it out. \u201cAh, you have tasted this wine before,\u201d remarked the somewhat chagrined American Merchant. \u201cOh, yes,\u201d replied the English banker, \u201cand in larger glasses.\u201d Stewart smiled faintly at the somewhat brusque remark, but that Englishman did not smile when Stewart dropped negotiations with his bankin\u2019 house then pending and transferred his favors to a rival London house.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The last Sunday dinner at the Stewart palace was a memorable one. Lord Mandeville was there, the Hon. John Bigelow and Edwards Pierrepont, Judge Hilton, of course, and eight other gentlemen besides the host, Mrs. Stewart being absent. One of the gentleman invited, bein\u2019 taken sick, sent his regrets, and thus, to Hilton’s annoyance and Stewart’s absolute dread, there were just thirteen sat down at table. Hilton offered to leave so as to reduce the number to twelve, but Stewart and the rest would not spare him. No one else could be asked to leave. Stewart couldn’t leave himself, and so with a strange forebodin\u2019 the millionaire poured out the blue seal for his guests. Eight days later the millionaire lay dead in a chamber near the dinin\u2019 room, and the blue seal has not been poured out since.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[Editor’s notes: A. T. Stewart (1803-1876) was a New York dry goods dealer, who dramatically changed business practices to focus on consumer appeal, principles he applied first to sell clothing, and then in opening one of the first large department stores, covering an entire city block.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Metternich rieslings employ different color seals to indicate the ripeness of the grapes used; blue is left on vine longest, until first freeze\/”noble rot” sets in. Legend has it this was discovered by accident, when a delay caused the grapes to be harvested so late they were given to the peasants, who then produced a high-quality wine.]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The late lamented Morris Franklin president of the New<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[85,26],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-924","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-alcohol","category-entrepreneurs"],"yoast_head":"\nA. T. 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