{"id":306,"date":"2023-07-21T20:06:52","date_gmt":"2023-07-22T00:06:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jerrykuntz.org\/harryhill\/?p=306"},"modified":"2023-07-21T20:06:55","modified_gmt":"2023-07-22T00:06:55","slug":"early-19th-century-butchers-of-new-york-published-may-11-1884","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jerrykuntz.org\/harryhill\/early-19th-century-butchers-of-new-york-published-may-11-1884\/","title":{"rendered":"Early 19th Century Butchers of New York [published May 11, 1884]"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"
The Fly Market, Abt. 1810<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      They have been tearin\u2019 down all the old markets of late and remodelin\u2019 and rebuildin\u2019 Washington Jefferson and Fulton markets. The old New York markets, in fact, have passed away and so have all, or almost all, of the old time New York butchers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      These last were a jolly industrious worthy race of fellows\u2013the Perrin family, for example, four of \u2018em, father and sons, all boss butchers John Perrin, Jr., was livin\u2019 until lately, and was about the best preserved specimen of jolly old sportin\u2019 gentleman I ever came across. He was one of the once famous five who were known all over butcher-dom as the \u201clast five old Fly Market butchers.\u201d When eighty-two years old he was almost as young in looks, and quite as young in heart, as at twenty-two, and a mighty good lookin\u2019 old man. Some of the girls used to prefer his company to that of men fifty years younger, and that fact tickled the old gentleman immensely. Nothin\u2019 pleased him more than cuttin\u2019 out some young chap in the graces of the fair sex. And next to a fine woman he liked a fine horse. In fact, the women used to say that he was quite as fond of horses as he was of \u2018emselves. Perhaps he was. He was an excellent rider, and was all the time makin\u2019 up matches and ridin\u2019 races. When he was seventy-two years of age, a time when most men have one foot, if not both, in the grave, he bet two thousand dollars even that he would ride a favorite mare of his on the Union Course, under the saddle, twenty miles in an hour. The parties afterwards backed out of their bet and paid forfeit to the old man, but he always insisted that he could have won his wager if he had been allowed to ride it out. This match was to have been ridden on the same day that Ethan Allen and Lantern trotted their great team race, and created almost as much local excitement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      He was a great man, too, for soldierin, and was one of the members of the once celebrated Butchers\u2019 troop, which was in its time as popular in New York as the Seventh Regiment to-day. This troop was composed wholly of butchers, \u201cnone but butchers need apply,\u201d and Perrin, beginnin\u2019 as private, soon got to be captain. He wasn’t a fancy officer either, but took pride in learnin\u2019 all about the art of war, and was considered in his day the most expert swordsman in the city. He took a great deal of pride in his troop, and was very particular about all its details. The uniform of this Butcher’s troop would cause a sensation on Broadway now. It consisted of a blue, short-tailed coat, trimmed with silver lace, buckskin breeches, long boots and a leather cone cap, with hangin\u2019 red horsehair. It was an expensive \u201crig\u201d costing about $120, but every butcher stood the charge without a murmur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      This boss of boss butchers began his butcherin\u2019 young. When not ten years old he dressed a lamb in his father’s place, near the old Bull\u2019s Head, put the carcass in a wheelbarrow and trundled it to the Fly Market, a long distance, all by himself. He was considered the best judge of \u201csmall stock\u201d in the city, and had a true artist\u2019s eye for the arrangement of the meats on his stall. This talk about an \u201cartist butcher\u201d may sound like highfalutin\u2019 now, but it ain’t, for the old butchers used to have a knack of makin\u2019 their stalls look tasty, and John Perrin had the best snack in this line of \u2018em all. People used to come from far and near to see Perrin\u2019s stall, and the fair sex admired it almost as they admired its proprietor. All the young butchers, too, the apprentices, used to come and look at Perrin\u2019s stall and take lessons in gettin\u2019 up arrangements and artistic displays of meats. Perrin had only two rivals in this way of arrangin\u2019 a stall, and those were Andy Wheeler and George Haws.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Perrin stayed in the Fly Market till that was torn down, and then he took a stall in Fulton Market, as did his friend and rival Andy Wheeler, likewise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      \u201cOld John Pell\u201d was a butcher who is still affectionately remembered. He was one of the old-fashioned kind of men, who ought always to be in fashion. He was particularly kind to his employees and apprentices.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      One of the Fulton Market butchers of to-day was one of old John Pell’s apprentices, and loves to talk about the old man yet. And no wonder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      The last day of his apprenticeship, old Pell asked the young fellow to stop up and see him \u201cat the house.\u201d The apprentice, wonderin\u2019 what was comin\u2019, dressed himself up in his Sunday-go- to-meeting\u2019s, called on his boss and was shown by the servant into the parlor. There he found his boss waitin\u2019 for him, and his boss’s wife and his boss’s daughters, and several of his boss’s friends, who all received him very kindly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Then he found waitin\u2019 for him in the dinin\u2019 room a splendid dinner, at which his boss\u2019s family and friends all drank his health and wished him happiness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      And then he found waitin\u2019 for him a sum of money, which old man Pell handed to his apprentice, not as a gift, but as his right, bein\u2019 monies derived from the sales of little things which were considered as the \u201cperks\u201d of butchers\u2019 boys and apprentices. This good wishin\u2019, this dinner, this money, and above all the recommendation which old Tom Pell gave his apprentice, proved the foundation of the future of the present successful Fulton Market butcher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Tom Gibbons was another good old butcher of the good old-fashioned kind, of whom there ain’t too many. He was a public spirited chap and always came to the front in every way whenever the butchers were concerned. He got up agricultural fairs, offered prizes for the finest cattle, was great in public meetin\u2019s and still greater in private benevolence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Of the three great public celebrations in which the butchers of New York took part Tom Gibbons made the principal show in two. These three great public turnouts were that in celebration of the adoption of the Federal Constitution, the celebration of peace between England and this country some twenty-five years later, and the celebration of the openin\u2019 of the Erie Canal. In the peace and Erie Canal celebrations Tom Gibbons took the lead.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      He got the biggest pair of cattle of his time in this country, called Monarch and Sovereign, and sent some of Monarch all the way to Washington to the President. The papers at that time made quite a fuss over \u201cthis gift of a Monarch to a President.\u201d It ain’t every day a President can eat a monarch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Just about this time a curious canard got started and excited the whole country, and all started, too, from a joke in the old Fly Market.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Havin\u2019 one morning killed a fat bullock which the farmer from whom he had purchased had named \u201cGeorge the Fourth,\u201d Gibbons jokin\u2019ly told one of his customers that the Irish (meanin\u2019 Michael McGloin, his chief assistant) had assassinated George the Fourth, the then rulin\u2019 monarch of Great Britain, who happened at that time to be on a visit to Ireland. Among others to whom Gibbons had repeated the joke was an enthusiastic Irishman\u2013an original O’Donovan Rossa\u2013who, because the wish was father to the thought, took it for gospel truth and rushed off and told his Irish friends. Before night the story of the assassination of George the Fourth had got round all the barrooms in the city, and the next day it got into the papers. There being no cable dispatches or swift steamers in those days, news was too scarce a commodity not to be made use of. Then it traveled up the Hudson and down South, gettin\u2019 more particulars as it rolled along. At Albany they had the exact place and exact date of the assassination, and at Savannah they had the name of the assassin. After the joke had been played for all it was worth, Gibbons got out little hand posters stating that \u201chis George the Fourth bullock, which weighed 1875 pounds, had been assassinated by his Irish assistant, Michael McGloin, would be served up to Englishmen, Irishmen, Americans and the rest of mankind, at eighteen pence a pound, at old Fly Market.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      Tom Gibbons had one peculiarity, in which few men resembled him\u2013more\u2019s the pity. He was always pityin\u2019 prisoners and doing all he could to help the poor devils who had got in jail. His pity wasn’t at all sentimental. He didn’t go to see \u2018em or send \u2018em books or investigate their condition or abuses, or talk of \u2018em or at \u2018em. All he ever did, and that he did all the time, was to send them something to eat, especially the debtors in the debtors\u2019 jail. He sent \u2018em every Xmas and Fourth of July a good dinner, and to some of \u2018em he sent dinners on days that were not public holidays. Nor did he send the poor prisoners unsellable stuff; no, he took care always to send them some of his best\u2013his \u201cpremium beef.\u201d And he did all he could by precept and example to induce his brother market men to remember the poor prisoners. And yet this fine old Christian and gentlemen died poor, ruined by a false friend of his whom he had trusted, a skunk named Sykes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      One of the most prominent of the old butchers was David Seaman, who, to show what’s in a name, was a \u201cman\u201d who had never been on the \u201csea\u201d in his life. Seaman had a sort of knack for organizin\u2019 and conductin\u2019 things, and he was the man who took charge of the once famous lawsuit of the fourteen old Fly Market butchers against the corporation. These fourteen butchers, of whom Seaman was one, had been obliged to give up their stalls in the old Fly Market by the course of \u201cimprovement.\u201d Not wishin\u2019 to be \u201cimproved\u201d out of existence the fourteen sued the corporation for damages, and through Seaman\u2019s energy and persistency won their suit and got nearly $11,000 damages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Seaman lived in Brooklyn for awhile, and his energy and organizin\u2019 ability had full play there. He went heart and legs and pocketbook into the two things that Brooklyn then most needed, a fire department and a ferry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Then, findin\u2019 Brooklyn just a little small and dull for him, he moved to New York, where he found that even he had room enough. Here he became a prominent member of old Engine No. 32 and soon worked up his way to fire Warden. Then he dashed into politics, and passin\u2019 through the degree of alderman, got to be a member of the Legislature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      There was at that time quite a bitter feelin\u2019 between the friends of Daniel D. Tompkins and DeWitt Clinton in the Legislature, and Seaman was a red-hot Tompkins man. But he was a gentleman and a man of honor, and when the Tompkins men proposed to have DeWitt Clinton removed from his office of canal commissioner just out of spite, Seaman wouldn’t join \u2018em, but voted against \u2018em and in favor of retainin\u2019 Clinton. He regarded the removal of Clinton as merely partisan malice, and told the Tompkins-ites one day that \u201cjust as sure as they removed Clinton from the office of commissioner, so sure the people would move him into the office of Governor.\u201d And he was right. There was a mass meetin\u2019 held in City Hall Park, New York, to protest against this piece of spite, and when somebody alluded in that meetin\u2019 to the \u201ccourse of David Seaman, the butcher,\u201d on this question, the whole assemblage took off their hats and gave \u201cDavid Seaman, the butcher\u201d three rousin\u2019 cheers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Sill another of the old time butchers of whom this city and their children may well be proud was David Marsh, who was not only a Fly Market, but afterwards a leadin\u2019 Fulton Market Butcher. This Marsh was the head man in what was the best sanitary commission New York has ever seen, or is ever likely to see, the cheapest and the best.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      In his time the Board of Health, after conferrin\u2019 with a committee of butchers, appointed a committee of seven old butchers to take charge and supervise all the slaughterin\u2019 of animals done in and around New York, and to see that only healthy meat was offered for sale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      This committee of seven butchers were all men who understood every detail of their own business; who loved their own business for its own sake; who wanted to see it conducted in the right way, and who had the interests and the health of the city at heart. They gave their conscientious skill, time and energy to this work, and they gave it without charge and for twenty years. While this splendid committee of seven was in operation, probably not one bit of tainted meat or fish was sold, or could be sold, in the whole city of New York.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Old David Marsh was always called \u201cUncle David\u201d and was one of the characters of the market. Nobody had ever seen him angry or out of humor. He always looked upon the sunny side of things.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      One time a job was put up to see \u201cif they couldn’t make Uncle David mad.\u201d He was very methodical in his way of doin\u2019 business and liked to personally wait upon all his customers, but each in their turn, systematically and quietly, so as to have time for a kind word or two with everybody.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      But one mornin\u2019, Saturday mornin\u2019, too, it so happened (!)– of course, it had all been previously arranged to happen\u2013that all Uncle David’s customers called on him at once, ten or fifteen at a time, all his best customers, too, people he wanted particularly to accommodate. The deuce was in the world this Saturday mornin\u2019. People who used to call at his stall at one hour now called on him at another hour, and all at the same hour. It was \u201cUncle David\u201d here and \u201cUncle David\u201d there, \u201cGive me this cut at once, I’m in a hurry.\u201d \u201cGive me that piece at once, I must be off.\u201d Everybody seemed worried and mad, everybody\u2013everybody but Uncle David.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      He remained as cool and as calm as he could for a while, and then, seein\u2019 the fuss around him, the old man quietly put down his cleaver and sat himself down on the stool beside his stall. \u201cWell now, gentlemen,\u201d he cried, with his usual smile, as unruffled as ever, \u201cas you all seem to be in a hurry all at once, you had best all help yourselves. Wait on yourselves and I’ll wait till you all get through.\u201d And he evidently meant what he said. No ill temper for him. So the crowd burst into a laugh and owned up the joke, at which Uncle David smiled more than ever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

[Editor’s notes: The above column was adapted from Thomas Farrington De Voe’s (1811-1892) The Market Book : Containing a Historical Account of the Public Markets of the Cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia and Brooklyn<\/em>. De Voe was a butcher, historian, and public servant, serving as Superintendent of Markets for the city. On publication, his book was viewed as a curiosity, but has become a significant source for historians of public commerce, New York City social life, and the food industry.]<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Thomas Farrington De Voe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      They have been tearin\u2019 down all the old markets<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[62,63],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-306","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-butchers","category-markets"],"yoast_head":"\nEarly 19th Century Butchers of New York [published May 11, 1884] - Harry Hill's Gotham<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/jerrykuntz.org\/harryhill\/early-19th-century-butchers-of-new-york-published-may-11-1884\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Early 19th Century Butchers of New York [published May 11, 1884] - 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